Planning your vacation in Provence in Fayence
Holidays in Provence usually mean Peter Mayle territory or the Côte d’Azur. Fantastic, that means that in the hills behind Cannes and near Grasse you have a select, quiet few who can enjoy all the good things without the crowds: sunshine, lavender, wine, spectacular scenery, olives, thyme and good food. Still, you can be happy knowing that Nice, Cannes, Antibes and other cities on the Mediterranean Sea are 45 minutes away.
Fayence lies between the Esterel Mountains and the Lower Alps. It is in a series of perched villages including Montauroux, Seillans and Callian, each no more than 10 minutes from the other. All these towns have typical markets, nice restaurants (for all budgets) and a sensible collection of everyday and tourist shops. None are overrun with foreigners, no curry to buy and no fish and chip shops. But you can drink Pastis and watch petanque.
Traveling to the Fayence area is easy. For car drivers, it’s about twelve hours door-to-door from London via Eurostar. Get out early and bright, then aim to break anywhere from Beaune onwards. We’ve stayed in the center of Puligny at Le Montrachet, right in the heart of Burgundy and minutes from the world’s most valuable wine estate. We have also stayed in Tournus at the elegant Hotel de Greuze.
For the brave and armed with books on tape, go ahead, do it in one fell swoop.
Air travel takes you to Nice (British Airways, Easyjet and British Midland/BMI) all offer routes. You’ll need a car, so skip the hassle of standing in line and rent one at Truche Location. They will make a plaque with your name and they will know you. When leaving, simply park the car in the airport terminal parking lot and leave the keys in the mail. Fayence is about a 50 minute drive from Nice Airport.
Those wishing to arbitrage money for time can try Toulon/Hyeres, closer to two hours after a Ryanair flight.
Fayence is at exit 38 (Les Adrets) of the A8 motorway.
For aquatic activity, you have the beaches, the mountain streams and, well, the swimming pool, which is enjoyed with a good book. We love going to the Siagne and Siagnole mountain gorges, on both sides of the village of Mons, at 830m high. Splash around in “refreshing” streams, plunge into rock pools, and plunge into waterfalls. Or eat your picnic lunch and watch the kids do it. The beaches are really crowded, but a walk along La Croisette in Cannes, a seaside lunch and a quick dip should not be missed. For a more intimate experience, seek out a cove in the red rocks of Esterel or visit Theoule. Make sure you reserve the sunbed in advance: for about 10 euros a day, it is worth it. Marco Polo beach is our choice.
The Verdon Gorges offer something for everyone about 90 minutes away by car. Rent a pedalo (with water slide) at Lac St.Croix and meander down the river looking at several hundred meters of rock wall. For the walker, take the six-hour Sentier Martel hike along the Verdon. (Tip: leave a car at the end and then take a taxi to the starting point). The more adventurous can practice hybrid sports such as rafting and canyoning: book in advance at Castellane.
Closer to home, there are many spectacular and challenging hiking trails (with magnificent inns at either end). For 1200m and above our best bets are Bauroux (start at Seranon where Napoleon stayed on his way to Grenoble in 1815), the Caussols plateau (between St. Vallier and Gourdon) offering views of Cannes, Nice and the Alps from the south. from the same point of view. For a walk along the river, head to the Pont des Tuves between St. Cezaire and Mons.
After a long hard day in the sun (summer temperatures average 30 degrees), the mind drifts to food and drink. Lunch is never a problem: baguettes, salads, cheeses, and pepperoni or rillettes are a done deal, washed down with a little rose and followed by fresh, juicy fruit.
For a “quiet” night, the chefs among you will prepare the kitchen themselves. Fayence has three supermarkets to purchase media. The Leclerc in Montauroux has the widest choice: In our family, the name “stinky Eric” has stuck and we’ve been teased for scantily clad appearances. For the night, Le Castelleras offers Michelin star quality (ask for the gourmet menu). Mons, Fayence and Seillans boast well-prepared local dishes at reasonable prices and friendly service.
We like Mons: Le Petit Bonheur, bustling and informal on the town square and L’Auberge Provencale with views of the Esterel and the coast.
To accompany your meals there is a splendid and affordable range of local Provence wines to sample – the supermarket outlet is fine for everyday drinking. For connoisseurs, a visit to the Maison des Vins in Les Arcs will deepen your liquid knowledge.
Tired, enjoy a coffee and a marc de Provence under the stars – no light pollution here in the hills.