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1. Searching for houses and searching for apartments are two completely different animals and require different approaches. In apartments there is always another one available next week. In homes, each one is unique, and once rented it disappears. That’s why being prepared is especially important when you need a home. That’s particularly true of high-end or well-located homes.

2. Remember, you cannot open the door to see the place without a REALTOR or owner present. Thank goodness for the MLS (multiple listing service) you should be using to find you the perfect home. Choose the areas of the city you’d like to live in, and then search the database for available homes in your price range. You should take out about 80% of the houses for one reason or another just by doing this. The rest will focus on you and your real estate agents.

3. Unlike apartments, houses will require substantial deposits and do not accept checks or cash. They will want certified funds (money order, cashier’s check), so you may need to budget. Contrary to popular belief, most houses are owned by people like you and me, and not big investors. They are looking for people who pay on time and don’t trash the place. Can you blame them? On the one hand, they can be demanding, but unlike many apartments, they are usually realistic in their expectations. Each homeowner will have different requirements, and as a rule, the better the place, the more closely they will look at your overall credit score. REALTORS must work with the requirements of each individual landlord, as well as comply with the law.

4. Very few REALTORS rent, mainly because the commissions are very low and there is a lot more work involved compared to renting apartments or selling houses. So when you find one that specializes in leasing, it’s a huge advantage in your search for a new home. Please understand that they are not tour guides. It is very important that you are prepared. Houses rent very quickly, especially nice or well located properties. It gets very competitive. So when we look at:

1. Have all parties (lease signers) of the property look at the same time.

2. Have your funds ready and be prepared to make a decision.

When should I start looking?

Remember, apartments and houses require different strategies. You should start looking at the different houses available to you online no earlier than 30 days before you want to move. This will give you an idea of ​​what is available in a given area. BUT there’s no point in searching because, unlike apartments, landlords won’t hold a house for you for more than a week or so. What you look at today will be gone in a month. It’s best to seriously consider places (to look physically) for rent only about two weeks before you intend to move. Unless specifically noted for pre-leasing, landlords generally accept the first qualified applicant with the earliest move-in date. That is why you must be prepared with your deposits and you must be ready to make a decision. The vast majority of people prefer to live in a house or duplex than in an apartment. That’s what makes it so competitive.

Management companies run most of the properties and are generally closed on weekends. Of course, you can search on the weekends, but you may not be able to do anything app-wise. Sometimes that’s a good thing, it gives you a break to think. If you’re from out of town, make sure you give yourself plenty of time.

Always have a backup of “stuff happens”, agents forget to remove MLS listing, lease on sight, owner changes mind about moving. Like I said, it’s not like looking at apartments. Again, one more reason, being prepared is vitally important.

What about my pets?

Many people move into a house so that the dog has a garden. However, many owners do not allow pets in their home. The MLS will usually itemize pet policies and deposits typically range from $300-$500. Sometimes they let you split it. They generally like smaller animals under 25 pounds, but this can vary quite a bit. And because it’s so individualized, it can depend on your credit and, of course, a credible case from your agent. If you have a pet, there is no point in looking for homes that do not accept it. You don’t want to commit a lot of your cash and waste a week only to be denied because you didn’t mention your dog.

Why you should use a REALTOR to find your next home.

1. While it’s true that driving around looking for houses to rent or sell can be a national pastime, understand that many of them are occupied. If the garage is closed and the shades are drawn, you may not be able to tell. Looking out someone’s bedroom window is usually a really bad idea and if they have a big dog…well…I know I wouldn’t want to be on that bus.

2. You can’t open the door and if you cancel the sign, then you’re still on…another agent program, (“I’ll be right there, let me pick up the kids at school and drop this movie off at Blockbuster”) It’s infinitely easier and obviously smarter to have a dedicated person there and able to open any and all doors for you today.

3. The MLS has virtually every property for rent in your city. By researching and doing your homework online beforehand and talking to your REALTOR, you can eliminate the 80% of properties that don’t work for you. That will save you hours of mindless driving. and above all, eliminate the problem of losing the street where the perfect house for you is located.

The system a real estate agent uses to find you the perfect home is robust, efficient, and will save you a lot of time, money, and frustration. Plus it’s fun and interesting! However, it requires a lot of work on the part of real estate agents. Please be considerate of your REALTOR. They work only on commission.

Hunting with a dog is quite a controversial sport these days and there are some dogs that are better than others, some dogs are better “at” a specific type of hunting than others, that’s why hunting with a dog is a popular sport among hunting enthusiasts. There is no specific group registered with the American Kennel Club (AKC) to hunt alone other than bloodhounds which are known to have an ancestral history in their lineage in the domain of hunting.

These traits vary from one dog to another: some have a highly developed sense of smell, while others have very good resistance, etc. Some of the most famous hounds would be: Beagle, Norwegian Elkhound, American Foxhound, Black And Tan Coonhound and others as well. The widely known AKC Sporting Group is a fairly large group of hunting dogs for those hunters who enjoy hunting together with a dog in a wooded or aquatic setting. Some of the dogs that belong to this group would be: American Water Spaniel, Golden Retriever, English Cocker Spaniel, German Shorthair Spaniel and others as well.

Moving on to the interesting part, the exciting aspect of the dogs mentioned above (and the rest of them, of course) is that each breed has its own natural behavior. Hunting together with one of these dogs will surely improve your hunting efficiency, but choosing the most appropriate type of dog is crucial, as some dogs excel at hunting foxes, for example, while others are better at hunting squirrels. . Terriers were originally developed to hunt small animals and kill vermin, and if you plan on hunting squirrels, for example, a working terrier is the best way to go. Hunting dogs are the most recommended for any type of hunting as they will prove their effectiveness if they are properly trained.

The main disadvantage regarding hunting dogs is that the training procedure is quite complex and may not show the expected results when first hunting with the dog. Regarding the aspect of training a hunting dog, it is also a matter of time, since properly training a dog for hunting can take up to a year and in some cases you will only have one opportunity to do it because some mistakes are irreversible. An example of an irreversible error would be the lack of early socialization. We recommend that you do some research before choosing your hunting dog (taking into account the type of game you will be using the dog for), start training from a young age and things should go smoothly.

All things considered, hunting together with a dog has its advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of using a dog is that if the dog was properly trained from a young age, the chances of catching more animals are greater than this dog will do some of the work for you. The main disadvantage would be that the whole training process takes some time and every dog ​​is different in its own way, so there is no standard training procedure applicable for all breeds.

Razvan Marian Jr. is the owner of www.huntingdogsreviews.com where you can find useful but also interesting facts about hunting dogs.

Choosing a spotting scope is something you want to make sure you get right the first time. These units can be expensive and there are many criteria that must be met before you can be sure you are getting the best telescope for your needs based on price, weight, length, body style, optical zoom and more.

There are a multitude of uses for spotting scopes. The most common uses are bird watching, wildlife viewing, hunting, and astronomy. Regardless of your hobby, the same criteria apply when choosing a spotting scope. This article looks at the components you’ll want to consider when purchasing a spotter. For more information on specific models of spotting scopes, see the link below.

Price and Quality: You get what you pay for, so go for the best you can afford!

The first element that must be taken into account is the price. Everyone has a different budget; therefore, it is reasonable to assume that the best telescope for you may be different from someone else’s due to price alone. Spotting scope prices range from under $100 to over $3000, and you can bet there are plenty in between. When deciding on your budget, it is important to realize the difference in quality that the price offers you. First of all, you need to spend at least $300 to get a spotting scope of any kind of quality, though $500 is where the quality really starts to shine. After that, the law of diminishing returns applies and the quality does not increase at the same level as the price. For example, a $500 scope is usually twice as good as a $250 scope, but a $1000 scope is usually not twice as good as a $500 scope. A $2,000 scope is also not twice as good as a $1,000 scope. There just isn’t a huge difference between the mid price and the high price unless you have them side by side. Still, generally, the more money you spend, the better range you’ll get. That’s why it’s important to choose the best viewer you can afford, because by choosing a viewer you definitely get what you pay for.

Size: Weight, Length and Objective

There is a wide variation in the size of the spotting scopes. What you use it for will determine how big you can get it to work. If you plan on birding, hunting, or viewing wildlife away from the road, you’ll want to choose a spotting scope that’s small enough to fit in a backpack. A good size scope for this would be one that has an objective lens of 65mm or less, is no larger than 12 inches, and weighs about 36 ounces or so. You’ll also want to invest in a good lightweight tripod.

If your needs for a spotting scope will keep you within sight of your vehicle or on your rig, then you can certainly get by with a much larger spotting scope. Larger visors equate to greater light gathering capacity, a larger field of view, and a higher price. When it comes to higher-end models, it’s hard to tell the difference between larger viewfinders with 80mm lenses and viewfinders with 60mm lenses, unless they’re side by side. Even then, the difference is only noticeable in low light conditions. However, as I said, if this scope is going to be mostly stationary, you won’t regret choosing a larger scope.

body type: straight or angled

When choosing a spotting scope, one of the most important decisions you will have to make is whether to go for a straight or angled body. Both have their pros and cons, but in the end it all comes down to personal preference.

angled body:

• Best for situations when standing as it requires less height from a tripod and will be best for multiple users of different sizes as it requires less height adjustment.
• Harder for beginners to find game due to angle.
• While it’s good for standing in the field, it’s more difficult to pack.
• Doesn’t work well at all for viewing in a car with a window mount.
• straight body:
• Easier to get on the intended object.
• Easy to use with window mount and sitting in a car.
• Better for packing.
• Slightly less expensive than angled.
• A taller tripod is needed and more adjustments are required for multiple users of different heights.
• author’s preference:
• Direct is the only way to go for my viewing style. I spend a lot of time throughout the year observing wildlife from the comfort of my vehicle with my spotting scope on a window mount. I also pack my spotter in my backpack a lot when I go hiking. I’m not going anywhere without it, so I need all the space and packing capacity I can get.

optical zoom:

Optical zoom is another very important factor to consider when choosing a spotting scope. Most are variable with a range between 15-75x magnification. You want to make sure the range is low enough that it’s easy to find an object due to the larger field of view and less shaking. On the other end of the spectrum, you want to have a scope that once you find something, you can zoom in on it for a close-up view from afar.

The higher the magnification power you have set, the more grainy (or less clear) the image will be. It will also have a smaller field of view and movement will be magnified making things look choppy. With high-quality spotting scopes, the optics provide a generous field of view, collect plenty of light, and provide sharp images. This makes it possible to have a clear image at higher magnification levels. This is not the case on less expensive models, causing image quality to deteriorate as magnification increases. So, if you’re looking for a less expensive spotting scope on the market, you’ll want something with a magnification that starts low, say around 15 power, and goes up to 40-50 power. With more expensive telescopes, you can get by with something that gives you more magnification and still get a clear image.

Rain is a rune word that can be made into body armor. The highest Rune required is an Evil, which falls somewhere between the semi-rare and extremely rare Rune category, making it relatively expensive compared to other Runewords. The +2 to druid skill levels and the large mana boost make this armor best suited for druids who make extensive use of their elemental abilities: fire or wind druids. However, other classes, more specifically casters, may also find this armor useful due to its large mana boost and the Damage Taken Goes to Mana mod.

Requirements:

3 plug body armor

Runes (in order): Ort + Mal + Ith

The stats:

Level Requirement: 49

5% chance to drop level 15 Cyclone Armor when hit

5% chance to cast level 15 Twister on hit

Druid Skills +2TB

+100-150 to mana (varies)

Lightning resistance +30%

Magic damage reduced by 7

15% of damage taken is converted to mana

5% chance to drop level 15 Cyclone Armor when hit

Cyclone Armor is a spell from the druid elemental skill tree. It is very useful: Cyclone Armor throws a cyclone shield around the Druid that absorbs Fire, Cold and Lightning damage, depending on the amount of the Skill Level.

A level 15 cyclone armor can absorb up to a total of 208 elemental damage (fire, cold, and lightning) before falling apart.

Cyclone Armor is incredibly useful because it can save the druid from imminent death. When the character reaches higher levels, 208 hit points can make the difference between being alive or dead.

5% chance to cast level 15 Twister on hit

Twister is a spell from the druid elemental skill tree. Launch several small whirlwinds that collide with the druid’s enemies, dealing physical damage and stunning targets for 0.4 seconds. The duration of the stun is fixed by the physical damage that depends on Twister’s level.

At 15 Level Twister does 44-46 Physical Damage.

Since this mod’s conditional trigger is On Hit, it would go well with fire or wind druids who are part caster, part melee anyway.

“Use it or lose it!”

You have made a substantial investment in your child’s education.

Music is like exercising; If you exercise your body regularly, there has to be a great health benefit. But just because you’ve been exercising for 10 months straight doesn’t mean you can stop exercising for 2 months and keep your health exactly as it was the last day you exercised!

Of course not.

What REALLY happens is that your health slowly begins to deteriorate. Do that for several months and all your hard work will pay off.

The same thing happens in MUSIC. Your child (and you!) have worked hard on your instrument/voice all school year, and if you take the summer off from lessons, YOU WILL LOSE IT because you didn’t USE IT all summer.

Imagine what would happen to your waistline if you didn’t exercise and eat whatever you wanted for 2 months! (If you’re one of those people who can eat cheeseburgers and fries all the time and never gain a pound, don’t tell me!)

So USE IT (your music lessons, of course) and keep the momentum going throughout the summer so you don’t LOSE IT! Learn new things in a more relaxed setting, when your child has more free time to practice without juggling homework.

Why When you don’t “Use” it, you “Lose” money:

Many parents believe they will “save money” by cutting music lessons for the summer. This is actually a pretty big short-sighted decision, because it doesn’t take into account “wearing out” of skills and techniques, and having to relearn these things when it’s fall “Back to School” time. If you have to learn something TWICE, you’ve wasted your money.

This is how you “lose” when you don’t “use”:

January 2011 – Pay $100, Learn Middle C, Play Multiple Songs in Middle C, Learn Notes and Rests

February 2011: Pays $100, stays in middle C, plays hands together and apart, learns a counter-movement C scale, brushing up on 2010 music terminology.

March 2011 – Pay $100 Tuition, Learn C Major Position, C Major Scale, Using Chord Progressions

April 2011: Pay $100 tuition, continue in C major position, learn F major position and scales

May 2011: Pay $100 tuition, continue above, learn transposition in C and F; learn rest values

June 2011 (3 weeks only): Pay $75 tuition, prepare for recital; continue up

Total: $575

July 2011: OFF (no tuition, no apprenticeship)

August 2011: Deactivated (no tuition, no apprenticeship)

September 2011: Pay $100 tuition, wrestle with June 2011 songs, relearn C major position, do 2010 hand exercises because fingers have lost some dexterity and independence, student is frustrated and losing moral

October 2011: Pay $100 tuition, relearn F major position, continue with C major position, practice 2010 and 2011 scales to get his finger strength back to where it was in June 2011. Still frustrated, the student wants to quit. Parents are now frustrated too.

November 2011: Pay $100 tuition, prepare for winter recital, but have to choose song learned from May 2011 because student hasn’t been able to learn any new material; he’s stuck re-learning material from March to June. , 2011.

December 2011 (3 weeks only): Pay $75 tuition, perform at Winter Recital. The student feels better about his playing, now back in a constant practice routine. Play a song from the winter recital that is at the same level as the student in June 2011. The teacher can now plan to learn new material after winter break in January 2012.

Total: $375.

However, if you check the above, you will see that this is the SAME $375 that they ALREADY PAID between March and June. Nothing new was learned, everything was learned again. So this was a loss of $375.

TOTAL PAID 2011: $950

However, $375 was a waste – parents paid TWICE for the same material learned!

In addition: motivation decreased; parents had difficulties and stress at home between lessons; student misses the opportunity to make the Studio CD for the holidays, the general satisfaction of the students has decreased.

What would have happened if the student took classes in July and August?

January – June 2011, same as above: $575 total

July 2011: Pays $75 (took vacation); learned the position of G major, scales in G major. Since the student has no homework and therefore more time available, they are assigned duets with another student and some fun and popular pieces that encourage them to practice more. Technique skyrockets, motivation increases!

August 2011 – Paid $75 (took a week off): Learning Transposition in CMajor, FMajor, and GMajor; the scales are fluid, finger dexterity and independence have increased, the practice routine has been consistent throughout the year, and the student loves playing duets.

Summer Total: $150

September 2011: Pay $100; The student is adjusting to the new school year, so the teacher cleverly assigns challenging but fun pieces, gives the student finger technique exercises, asks the student to write a song in C, F, or G as a relaxing project .

October 2011: Pay $100; The student is already thinking about the winter recital, so the teacher begins assigning Christmas pieces to work on; since the student’s technique and practice have been consistent, the teacher also assigns a Christmas duet with another reliable and consistent student. He begins to learn hand-over-hand techniques, including arpeggios, in C, F, and G.

November 2011: Pay $100: Continue to work on duets and Christmas songs; refining marks of expression like legato, staccato, marcato, sforzando, and dynamics like crescendos and decrescendos.

December 2011: Pay $75 (3 weeks only): Get ready for holiday recitals, work on stage etiquette and audience etiquette, do a fun “recording project” with GarageBand in the master’s studio; participate in the “Holiday Studio CD Creation Project” with the other students who are ready; give the CDs as gifts to family members.

Fall Total: $375

Total for the year: $1050

AND: Student motivation is consistent and thriving, time back to school was an easy transition as student was used to practicing year-round, stress at home is limited, and student was able to make substantial progress in their material. The hands of the students have been improving and advancing in their abilities. The student has had encouraging and motivating new experiences such as playing duets, playing new and more advanced material at the winter recital, and is SO proud to be a part of the Holiday Studio Make a CD project! Students practice with little or no effort from parents. The student identifies himself as a musician to his friends at school and is happy to show him off to his class.

Conclution:

Although in Scenario II, the parent paid $100 more for annual tuition, the student has made steady progress and is much closer to having “music for life” rather than just “music for now.” The parent has made an INVESTMENT in the child’s future and in the future of their grandchildren: this child is likely to continue in music until he or she is fluent enough to play for fun, at parties for friends, and maybe even make money on music. this or go to university and study. there. This is an enriching, consistent and educational experience, part of the fabric of the child’s life.

In Scenario I, it appears that the parent paid $100 less, but actually paid $375 MORE due to repetition. The boy had a rough start to the school year because he had to re-create a practice routine while adjusting to his new grade level. Parents were stressed at home between lessons and even contemplated quitting altogether at times. The boy does not see himself as a “musician” since he is not consistent in his life. If this continues for a few years or more, the child is likely to reach high school and lose these skills forever: he did not make “music for life.”

Conclusion: Don’t take the summer off!

A 1986 study by the Institute of Medicine concluded that many nursing home residents were being abused. This study fueled reform efforts that were signed into law in 1987. The Nursing Home Reform Act was passed as part of the Omnibus Budget Reconciliation Act of 1987.

The goal of the reforms was to ensure that patients received the highest practical care to foster their mental, physical, and psychosocial well-being. The law established a Residents’ Bill of Rights and specifies the services that must be provided. Medicare and Medicaid payments will be suspended if the facility fails to comply with the reforms. As nursing homes rely on most of their expenses being funded from these sources, facilities are forced to ensure that their care is up to standard.

Required resident services include: comprehensive care plans for each individual resident, periodic evaluations by professionals, nursing services, rehabilitative services, social services, pharmaceutical services, dietary services, and if the facility houses more than 120 patients , you must employ a full social worker. hour.

The Residents Bill of Rights provides patients with the following:

-The right to be free from abuse, mistreatment and neglect;

-The right to be free from physical restraints;

-The right to privacy;

-The right to accommodation of medical, physical, psychological and social needs;

-The right to participate in groups of residents and relatives;

-The right to be treated with dignity;

-The right to participate in the review of one’s plan of care, and to be fully informed in advance of any change in care, treatment, or change in status at the facility; Y

-The right to express complaints without discrimination or retaliation

To assess whether nursing homes meet the criteria designated by the Nursing Home Reform Act, the law established a certification process. It requires the state to conduct unannounced surveys and interview residents at random times. However, the government did not issue regulations for the process until 1995. If there are specific complaints filed against a nursing home, residents will often be surveyed so that if there is a problem, it can be detected.

If a nursing home is found to be in violation, it might have an opportunity to correct deficiencies before discipline is imposed. However, the following penalties have been imposed for facilities that do not pass: targeted in-service training of staff, targeted remedial plan, state oversight, civil money penalties, denial of payment for all new Medicare or Medicaid admissions, denial of payment of all Medicaid or Medicare patients, temporary administration and provider agreement termination.

Three years ago, I knew nothing about hybrid vehicles. Then in 2004, when gas prices topped $2 a gallon for the first time, I started hearing about the Toyota Prius (the same year it won multiple “Car of the Year” awards), the Honda Civic Hybrid, and the Honda Insight. . Since my interest had always been in SUVs, it wasn’t until I saw the 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid that hybrids really caught my eye. That was at the end of 2004.

Fast-forward three years and now I’m spending several hours a week learning all about hybrid SUVs. This is a very exciting time for anyone interested in owning a hybrid as we have quickly gone from just a few hybrid options to a future where we will likely have over 100 hybrids to choose from. Several automakers have recently announced that they will soon offer hybrid versions of most or all of their new models, including Toyota, GM, Volkswagen, and Chrysler.

While hybrid cars, trucks, and SUVs are currently all the rage, most people still don’t know much about hybrids. In an effort to dispel some of the common myths and shed some light on these “green machines,” we’ve put together a list of the 10 things you may not know about hybrids.

1. Hybrid vehicles are powered by a gasoline engine, in combination with an electric motor, not just one or the other. For a great demo of how these systems work together, check out this article on HowStuffWorks.com.

2. Hybrids don’t need to be plugged in. So-called “plug-in” vehicles are coming, but today’s hybrids recharge their batteries while slowing down and during braking.

3. Hybrids don’t skimp on power. The 2008 Toyota Highlander hybrid SUV and its non-hybrid counterpart sport a 270-hp engine. (Need more power? The Lexus LS 600h has 438 hp and goes 0-60 mph in 5.5 seconds.)

4. Hybrids are not too expensive. There are several makes and models of hybrid cars and SUVs priced between $20,000 and $25,000, including the Prius, Civic, Escape, Altima, Vue, and Aura. Many of these vehicles also come with federal and state tax credits. Factor in fuel economy, resale values, and lower maintenance costs, and hybrids are pretty affordable.

5. Hybrid batteries last for many years. In fact, most manufacturers guarantee their hybrid vehicle batteries for 80,000 to 100,000 miles. (Under California regulations, the battery warranty is extended to 10 years or 150,000 miles.)

6. Not all hybrids are the same. While the Hybrid Prius gets around 50 mpg, the Saturn Vue Green Line averages around 30 mpg. Hybrid versions of the soon-to-be-released 2008 Chevy Tahoe and GMC Yukon are expected to achieve 23 mpg (though 25 percent better than the gas versions of these potentially future-saving full-size SUVs).

7. Hybrid vehicles are reliable. Because hybrids are relatively new and often misunderstood, many people assume that they are untested and unreliable. In fact, the Honda Civic Hybrid was recently ranked most reliable by Consumer Reports. See soultek.com). Additionally, the Highlander Hybrid, Accord Hybrid and Prius all ranked at or near the top in their respective reliability categories. In fact, Toyota’s Prius Hybrid was the most satisfying vehicle for the third year, with 92 percent of owners saying they would buy or lease again. In last year’s survey, 95 percent of owners said they would buy or lease a Prius again. Read more here.

8. Hybrids aren’t going away anytime soon. In 2005, more than 200,000 hybrids were sold. Last year that number was closer to 250,000. While there are only 13 hybrid cars, trucks and SUVs on the market today… most experts agree there will be close to 50 available by 2010.

9. Hybrids are green vehicles. It sounds like a no-brainer, but many people believe it’s a myth that hybrids are better for the environment, with some even arguing that they’re worse than gasoline or diesel vehicles. The fact is that many hybrids on the road today are capable of producing 50% to 90% less harmful emissions than non-hybrids.

10. Hybrids can be luxurious. The first hybrid I saw on a dealer lot was the Honda Insight. While it was futuristic, it was anything but luxurious. That was just a few years ago. I recently researched the new 2008 Lexus RX 400h SUV and in my opinion it is the epitome of luxury hybrid, luxury SUV and luxury vehicle.

10.5. The idea for this article came from a story I found yesterday on Esquire.com. Connie Britton’s “Ten Things You Don’t Know About Women” included the fact that women think hybrid cars are sexy (followed by a note that walking six blocks to avoid paying a valet isn’t sexy). So… get a hybrid and pay the valet, gentlemen.

I was shopping for new fishing gear one day when I walked into a local sporting goods store and saw this Shimano Talica reel. I wasn’t too thrilled when I saw this little reel from Shimano, but something inside me told me I should take a closer look. So I asked the seller to give me the real one. He cheerfully handed me the Talica while keeping my eyes glued to it, thinking I should get to my boat and try this one out. I didn’t care if it was more than $400.

I was honestly surprised at how light it was. I didn’t expect it to be as light as it felt. Weighing in at only around 18.6 oz, that’s about 1,165 lbs, it really felt good. Coupled with the perfect rod, you could probably go out and sail all day just fishing. I remember thinking that I could fish all day without getting tired with this small but mighty reel. It is quite small, yes. But I was a big believer in “big things come in small packages.”

Looking at the Shimano Talica II conventional reel, I love how sleek it looks. With a silver body on its metal side plates with gold plated metal spool, handle arm and lever, it is certainly an apple to my eyes. However, I expected the dominant color to be flat gold. But I’m fine with silver and gold. As mentioned, it looks more elegant this way. The mango was amazing. However, the “clicker ring” on the lever is plastic. I was wondering if this might be a problem with the durability of the real thing. I’m guessing not, as I’ve never heard anyone rant about Shimano having issues with durability. After all, they are one of the best, if not the best reel maker on the market. Well, after checking how it felt and how it looked, I checked more specs just to make sure I wouldn’t waste my money.

Anyway, I was reviewing the Shimano Talica TTAC10 model. I looked at the box it was taken from and the specs listed a gear ratio of 6.2:1 (H) 4.1:1 (L) which is good because in my fishing experience a gear ratio like this is fine. yes, fast but does not compromise the IPT. The Crank Line Retriever is a nice 38 inches tall and 25 inches short. The maximum resistance to the maximum is 20.0 pounds, while the maximum resistance to the blow is 13.0 pounds.

So thoughts of this reel being expensive were overcome by my drooling over this casting reel. I bought it right away without a second thought and brought other things I needed and headed straight to my boat for my first fishing experience with my new best friend the Shimano Talica II.

So I sailed to see what my new discovery could do for me. So when I first launched it, I was in awe. It melted perfectly. As always promised, the Talica II casting reel casts very well. I didn’t have to worry about getting my hands oily as they used high quality greaseless bearings. I also had no problems when I cast it with blue bait. I was thinking sardines would work well too, which I’m still going to try.

The resistance was great; I had no problems with that or whatever. The drag was designed to be so smooth that it could handle 4 lines of what is expected for its size. Shifting from low to high gear was as convenient as it gets, you didn’t have to be an expert angler to do it with the Shimano Talica II.

I would definitely recommend this casting reel to my friends. it’s a treasure. I finally found the real thing I’ve always been looking for: small but mighty. Shimano Talica II conventional reel: it’s the bomb!

First seen in 1989, the Honda AX 250 soon became a popular motorcycle thanks to its exceptional handling, fast performance and rider comfort. Made in Japan and exported as the AX-1, it has nearly the same specs as the older American model, the Honda NX250. Changes from the NX 250 are primarily cosmetic, such as the distinctive dual headlights and alloy wheels seen on the AX 250. The NX250’s proven tubular steel double-cradle chassis is also found on the AX-1 250 (popularly known as the AX 250).

Powered by a liquid-cooled DOHC four-stroke single-cylinder engine, this Japanese off-road motorcycle could generate 26 hp at 8500 rpm. While these weren’t the biggest numbers, they were enough to put a lot of power into the AX 250’s 205-pound chassis. This Honda off-roader came with disc brakes for both the 19-inch 90/100 front and 19-inch rear. 120/90 16-inch tires; Ideal for controlling speed on uneven terrain. The transmission system consisted of 13 front sprocket units along with 41 rear sprocket units. For even better control, riders had a 6-speed chain drive gearbox that could take the Honda AX 250 up to a top speed of about 85 to 90 mph.

The Honda AX 250 off-roader also achieved high marks when it comes to rider comfort, thanks to its well-designed suspension and 254mm of ground clearance. The 37mm front fork unit had a comfortable 221mm of travel, while the rear suspension unit consisted of a Pro-Link component with 201mm of rear travel; great for hard riding! Casual riders liked the Honda AX 250, too, thanks to rider-friendly touches like electric starting, dual disc brakes, and worry-free CDI ignition. Depending on driving conditions, owners have reported fairly good gas mileage figures, at around 10 miles per gallon.

Built in Japan until 1994, the Honda AX 250 has amassed a sizable fan base among early off-road enthusiasts. In fact, a gray market version of the original AX 250 is still available in certain parts of Asia, where it’s very popular with tourists interested in cruising the less-than-perfect local roads. The AX 250 remains a popular used motorcycle in the UK, thanks to the reliable Honda engine and readily available spare parts. With proper maintenance and quality parts, even a decade-old Honda AX 250 can dazzle onlookers and thrill off-roaders.

BMW has come a long way from its beginnings as an aircraft engine manufacturer to become one of the most popular family, luxury and sports car manufacturers today.

The company began in 1913 as the Rapp-Motorenwerke firm, making aircraft engines, before merging with the Bayerische Flugzeugwerke factory, located near the outskirts of Munich, in 1922. The letters BMW stand for Bayerische Motoren Werke.

In its early days, BMW primarily manufactured aircraft engines and occasionally motorcycle engines. In fact, the BMW badge was designed to look like an airplane propeller, and it wasn’t until 1929 that the company became a car manufacturer after buying the Fahrzeugfabrik Eisenach factory that produced Austin Sevens.

Developing the style of automobiles manufactured over time, in 1936 BMW began producing the 328 sports car, which enjoyed incredible success. In 1999, the BMW 328 was nominated for Car of the Century.

During the three years leading up to World War II, BMW manufactured aircraft, motorcycle, and automobile engines. During the war, the company focused on aircraft engines and stopped making cars altogether. In 1948, motorcycle manufacturing began again, but it wasn’t until 1952 that BMW began making cars once again. However, the launch of the luxury car BMW 501 was not a great success and as a result the company did not make a profit, so the company brought the design and manufacturing rights to the Isetta, a microcar, cheap to manufacture. and started selling them.

BMW’s fortunes changed over the next decade and the 1960s brought considerable success for the company. The BMW 1500, a four-cylinder sports car, was introduced in 1961, followed shortly by the BMW 2002, a two-door car that remained in production until 1976 and was the predecessor to the BMW 3 Series.

The 1970s saw BMW continue to build its reputation for creating original and sought-after cars, as this decade saw the launch of the 3, 5 and 7 Series. Between 1970 and 1993, BMW quadrupled its production and turnover by an incredible 1700%. .

Between 1994 and 2000, BMW was owned by the British Rover group, but the company was unsuccessful and the company soon divested from Rover. However, BMW retained the rights to Mini and has enjoyed, and continues to enjoy, considerable success with this business.

Today, BMW is seen as an innovative manufacturer and has a reputation for excellence, both for its design and the quality of its cars.