Certified Organic Products in Oaxaca, Mexico: Is it Necessary or Even Advisable?
Although there are certified organic food and liquor producers in the central valleys of the state of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico, the question arises as to whether tourists on a short visit, or residents of its capital, Oaxaca de Juárez, should go out. from your home. way of looking for the production of these suppliers. Are there healthy, sustainable and environmentally friendly alternatives to shopping at the organic market on Fridays and Saturdays in the Xochimilco neighborhood in the far north of the city, or patronizing restaurants that boast of using certified organic products or of being Slow Food supporters?
Cultural and historical background of organic corral production in Oaxaca
More than 10,000 years ago, nomadic hunters and gatherers first appeared in the Oaxacan landscape; in the central valleys, on the coast, in the mountainous regions of the Sierra Madre del Sur, in the arid plains of the desert, and elsewhere.
When sedentary lifestyles finally emerged, the cultivation of plants, fruits, and vegetables began to take hold, along with the domestication of animals. Corn production originated in this part of Mexico, so along with beans and squash arose some of the first vegetables and legumes to be grown. The arrival of the Spanish in Oaxaca in 1521 resulted in the importation of new products, including animals such as sheep (which were not indigenous to the New World), as well as additional nuts, fruits, herbs, and vegetables.
But the state of Oaxaca effectively remained isolated from the rest of the country and self-sufficient. Geographic isolation continued largely until the Pan-American Highway reached Oaxaca in the late 1940s. And even since then, many parts of the state have remained rugged and removed from mainstream Oaxacan society. The eight broad geographic areas of the state, characterized by extremely diverse growth and climatic regions, have continued to host large native populations.
The implication of the above is that many local populations within the state’s 16 indigenous cultures have remained, in the 21st century, almost completely self-sufficient and dependent on centuries-old production methods, without resorting to chemical insecticides or fertilizers; in effect, models of organic, green and sustainable production.
Non-certified organic agricultural production in Oaxaca today
Organically produced fruits and vegetables, as well as chickens, turkeys, goats and other edible animals with poultry hooves, are available for purchase by consumers and for consumption in restaurants, without there being any visible seal or signage that Suggest the means by which the growth has occurred. been reached. There does not need to be a label on produce in local markets stating “certified organic” or a Slow Food logo on restaurant menus. And if a product is available for sale in an “organic market”, does that automatically mean that it has been grown without the use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers, simply by virtue of where it is offered for sale?
Most small farmers, peasants, cannot afford to use synthetic products to stimulate growth or inhibit infestation. Equally significantly, they have learned to grow organically, having watched and helped their grandparents, great-grandparents, and previous generations.
It is not suggested that all local producers follow the pure and natural path to economic subsistence, rather that many still exist, are used to and comfortable with their production methods and continue to resist change, benefiting the economy-conscious middle class. health, foreigners and Mexicans. nationals alike.
It is the certification and the logo that evidences certain claims, which is in dispute. Many restaurants in Oaxaca serve dishes that use organically produced foods without indicating any designation; and sellers in many markets fail to even suggest means of production. Shoppers are simply expected to know that they are buying fresh, organic produce.
The same rural vendors who have been producing fruits, vegetables, herbs and meat for generations, organically, green and sustainably, sell directly to some restaurants and consumers, quietly and without fanfare, and without charging a premium to cover the cost of the food. membership in a certification program.
There is nothing wrong with supporting “organic markets” in Oaxaca, buying certified organic produce and meats, and sponsoring restaurants that boast of being advocates of the Slow Food movement. But you pay a price. In addition, with a little homework (that is, ask and visit rural producers) you can eat just as green and sustainable and like pure mezcal, without demanding to see a label that accredits it. It’s easy to support small producers whose life is organic and country, and always has been.
Ask at some of the best, quaint little restaurants in downtown Oaxaca. Visit the markets of the city on your market days where you will see vendors sitting at the entrances or outside, on the ground, selling produce they collected perhaps 12 hours ago, just before getting on a bus to Oaxaca. You can find the same if you venture out of town to the weekly village markets, in addition to birds, goats, etc.
It is much more difficult to buy green in New York, Chicago, Toronto or Los Angeles. So in those cities it makes sense to go where you have security, based on reputation, labeling and marketing. But Oaxaca is different, and indeed different from other cities and regions of Mexico, especially those in the northern half of the country. It is easy to maintain an organic and sustainable lifestyle in Oaxaca, without paying the price and supporting the business enterprise, and at the same time supporting small rural organic producers.